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Naked desire

May 2004
By Nargess Shahmanesh-Banks    

In the English language the word naked has embarrassing connotations. It's crude: "deprive yourself of cloths", it implies. The word nude on the other hand has no uncomfortable overtones. Nargess Shahmanesh-Banks argues that the nude remains the perfect base for design today.

Apollo
The Greeks invented the perfect image of man with the Apollo (above); Ghery uses process to create strong layering seen on the Bilbao Guggenheim in Spain (right); and Bangle's Z4 (below) combines process and the nude to create perfect design

Bilbao Guggenheim in Spain
BMW Z4

The Greeks invented the nude, as an art form. The iconic beauty -- the ideal human form available to man -- can be traced as far back as the 5th century BC. Then the Greeks were crazy about mathematics and it was with its application that they were able to create the perfect, geometrically proportioned image of man.

According to Kenneth Clark, author of The Nude -- a must read for all designers -- "The relation of head to body determines the standard by which we assess all other proportions in nature." Even abstract shapes like the square and the circle become male and female. Additionally, he argues, the human eye is unforgiving or even disturbed by bodily imperfections and so doesn't judge the nude as a living organism, but as a design.

"Replace nude with car, and you will understand everything about cars," says Chris Bangle who is a big fan of Clark's book. You could say it's a bible for the controversial BMW chief designer. Bangle insists we start by reading this book to ‘get’ what he’s been doing with the Bavarian brand and revisiting it has not only opened my eyes, or more precisely geared my eyes differently to his work, but to that of car design in general.

Through history, the love of the nude remained, but the naughty bits were covered in time. It was no longer deemed quite so acceptable to have all those stark naked male statues everywhere. But effectively what the draping did was to create a hidden sexuality. What was beneath the layering?

"When the Greeks put cloths on the nude, suddenly there was tension," says Bangle. According to the author and the controversial car designer everything around us, every object, appeals to us because we relate to it on a human scale. Bangle adds: "It has to relate to us on a personal level and nothing is more personal than the erotic emotions of life."

Bangle is fascinated by process. In other words he is obsessed with what technology can do to help create more complex shapes. In his belief the only way to create perfection in design is for nature and machine to work together in harmony. Process has allowed Bangle to effectively push the boundaries of car design. Process has allowed him to overwork the body of his cars to create the concave and convex surfaces everyone likes to talk about.

The same way process allowed architect Frank Ghery to produce the complex bendy structures and laying effect that has become his design signature, most notably seen on the Bilbao Guggenheim in Spain. The architect is somewhat of a hero to Bangle and apparently the affection is mutual.

But going back to draping, process is key to creating draping. Bangle is a master of draping. Draping is what makes one of his earliest cars, the Z4 in particular such a sexual car. Here steel is stretched seductively over a hidden masculine body that is probably as perfect a nude as the ones meticulously carved out of marble by the Greeks all those centuries ago.

Bangle confesses that car design is an erotic experience. Clark says no nude, however abstract, should fail to arouse some form of erotic feeling in the spectator. Failing this, he concludes, the artist has false morals and the art is bad.

It seems that everyone is overcomplicating Bangle’s design language. In simple terms the man is trying to apply the perfect form invented before Christianity to BMW cars. Ghery was heavily criticised earlier in his career for being provocative. Critics said he was shallow and relied too much on effect. But he stuck it out and was in time accepted and then loved, admired and copied. His building in Spain is so powerful that it has actually put Bilbao on the map. It’s not right to make comparisons at this stage, but my hunch is that the church of Bangalism may also one day become the winning faith.

To quote Clark: "Modern art shows even more explicitly than the art of the past that the nude does not simply represent the body, but relates it, by analogy, to all structures that have become part of our imaginative experience." After all, the nude is not a subject of art, but a form of art.

 


 



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